After spending a few days in Antigua, I started to make my way to Lake Atitlán (Lago de Atitlán). Lake Atitlán is a volcanic-formed lake surrounded by small villages mainly accessible by boat. The road trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlan is about 4 hours. The road to Lake Atitlán is a steep climb in altitude and then a steep decline to the bottom of the lake.
Pro tip: If you are prone to motion sickness, stop by the local pharmacy and get some Nauselol (a local brand) for the ride.
I took a shuttle van directly from my hotel to Panajachel. Panajachel (paa·nuh·haa·chl) is the main village at Lake Atitlan. The village is full of hostels, backpackers, locals, and overall laid-back travelers. Don’t worry about the pronunciation since the locals call it Pana. Pana is the launching point for the “ferry” really a mid-size boat that stops at most of the local villages surrounding the lake. There are no signs and prices listed but it’s about $20 GTQ (~ USD 2.58). Don’t ask the price since they will quote you a higher price, I gave the money to the driver as I exited the boat. The locals pay in coins, and travelers pay more, so it is what it is. It is about a 25-minute ride to San Marcos La Laguna.
As soon as I exited the shuttle, someone directed me to the pier for the water taxi. hey loaded my bag, and I found a seat on the rows of boats. There is no social distancing so be prepared to be up close and personal. The goal is to get the boat as full as possible before they leave the dock. Once the boat is at capacity, we were off for a choppy boat ride to San Marcos La Laguna. The boats move swiftly across the waters of the lake. The ride reminds me of a speed boat more than a water taxi. if you are subject to motion sickness, please note the boat hits the water with rhythmic thuds which make for a choppy ride. Refer to the “pro tip” above. It is good to note that the villages are not clearly marked, so you need to pay attention. When we got to San Marcos I was unaware, and someone ushered me off the boat. In a flash, a local boy grabbed my suitcase and asked where I was going, and I said, Lush. He said, followed me, and off we went down the dirt path to Lush or my impending doom. We walked to a short maze to a carved door with a hummingbird drawing on the adjacent wall (I used this painting as my visual marker). Once at the threshold for Lush, the young boy and I started our negotiations for the price of his services (always get the price upfront). Because I wouldn’t have been able to navigate on my own with the luggage and was still slightly dazed from the drive and boat ride, we settled on 75 GTQ ~9.68 USD.
Pro tip: Guatemala is an elevated landscape and if you venture to Lake Atitlán, be ready to climb. ost of the beautiful pictures probably required a climb 😉.
Lush is lush, a tropical garden compound. Lush is a place to disconnect from the world and reconnect with yourself. There are no TVs, but they do have wi-fi. Also, there are no elevators, so the rooms with the best view of the lake are on the top floor. They will assist you with your luggage. Nevertheless, you have to climb a flight of stairs along a paved walkway. Every day is leg day in Guatemala. A couple of perks of Lush is the complimentary vegan breakfast and a daily pass to the adjoining natural preserve, Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve. I stayed in the Pescado (fish) suite; it gets its name from stained glass fish embedded in the wall. The Pescado suite is a charming suite with a queen size bed, a private bath, and a rooftop terrace kitchenette with picturesque views of the lake. The breakfast is great especially the chia seed banana pancakes. The pancakes were some of the best pancakes I’ve ever had.
Pro tip: This is not your place if you are afraid of bugs You have been warned I like to spray the bed’s outline to create a bug barrier, but that does not impact the flying ones Also, bring a natural bug repellent and reapply as needed.
In San Marcos, when it gets dark, it is truly dark. There are no street lights, so you will need a small flashlight or use your phone light. There a quite a few restaurants like Vida on the path to Lush, so if you are solo and a little frightened of the dark, get some takeout before it gets dark. As previously mentioned, one of the perks of Lush is that it includes a daily pass to the adjacent Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve. Cerro Tzankujil is a park with hiking trails, sacred ceremonial spaces, swimming, cliff jumps, and just an overall serene place to unwind and get in tune with nature or just ride a book while relaxing by the lake. The water is crystal clear and accessible from the dock.
Another place I visited was East-West Center for restorative healing, which is in San Pablo la Laguna but a short tuk-tuk ride from San Marcos. This center specializes in all healing modalities, but I opted for an aromatherapy massage and a healthy skin facial. I received my services from Vanga (massage) and Julianna (facial). There is a cafe on the premise so you can grab a bit to eat in between services and do not have to leave. I sat on the deck and enjoyed the tranquil space on my birthday as I reflected on my travels and how the universe brought me to this moment.
My time in San Marcos was so peaceful, and I allowed myself to relax and not chase adventure or Instagram hot spots. I would definitely return to Guatemala since there is much more to see, especially the Mayan ruins of Tikal, Livingston, and Semuc Champey. Also, due to the remote location and the timing of my return flight, I did stay overnight at Selina Atitlan in Panajachel since they offered a shuttle to the airport for USD 20. Additionally, I needed to COVID test before coming back to the US so I needed to allow time for testing at the airport. This was my first hostel experience, and Selina is the way to go since it is well appointed with a restaurant, pool, body treatments, shuttle service to other remote areas, and beach bar (within walking distance near the deck). Your check-in includes a welcome drink. I opted for a private room which was surprisingly large. The room and adjoining bathroom were spotless. Selina is well staffed, including the front desk, bar, and cleaning staff. This was great for a quick stop before heading to the airport.
Funny note: There are tons of stray dogs, it reminds me of the Isle of Dogs because they are everywhere, but they are pretty harmless.
Stay tuned to hear about my summer trip to Belize …
